From Tokyo to Jakarta across the Equator

For some peculiar reason, I happen to have come to Indonesia. A couple of weeks ago, I got an unexpected phone call asking me to see Mr. So and so. I didn’t know this person very well and wasn’t really sure what was going on there. I usually turn down such a request. I’m not really interested in taking over somebody else’s role. Besides I hadn’t got so much experience with heat; I didn’t think I could deal well with it. Although I was reluctant at first, they somehow persuaded me to go and visit him.

Well, rainy season was upon us once again. I wanted to avoid ruining the following weekends blaming the weather at home anyway. Last summer, my town had 21 consecutive days with rain fall. It drove me nearly crazy. And it was very urgent; it was nearly the end of Ramadan in Islamic calendar. Almost everyone in Indonesia — approx. 90 percent of the nation’s population — goes back to their hometown to see their family for the national holiday. Stores and restaurants will be closed. And spotting vacant airline seats will be extremely difficult.




I also needed to make a reservation right after the call. I guess it was just my luck. I could get a seat, succeeded in packing my stuff without losing my enthusiasm and got on a plane. I flew from Tokyo to Jakarta — with my road bike.

It was a cool, rainy weekend in Tokyo. The air temperature was below 70 °F. And it poured all weekend long. As I walked to Shinjuku bus terminal carrying a hard bike case, I got totally soaked. I felt very uncomfortable. And when I arrived in Indonesia, it was fairly dry, warm and dusty. The temperature was more than 90 °F. I sweated like a pig and felt even more uncomfortable. It was just the beginning of the rainy season in Tokyo and the dry season in Jakarta. I felt like jumping into the swimming pool with my clothes on but all I could do was just getting to my hotel as soon as possible. Anyway, I’ve come to Indonesia! I will go with the flow and see what’s showing up.

A swimmer turned cyclist turned swimmer again

Sunny weekends are always a great time to pedal a bike. Cyclists spend practically all weekend in the saddle and enjoy the sunshine, greenery and scenery. Cyclists in Tokyo are no exception. They usually wake up as early as 4 a.m., head for rural areas 50 or more miles away from where they start or pack their bike into a small bike bag and get on a train in order to avoid Tokyo’s dangerous roads.

Tokyo’s roads weren’t designed to be shared. Many of them weren’t even designed for motor vehicles. They usually remain the basic structures of centuries-old passageways, trails and ancient highways. Although most of these roads have been continuously widened, the overwhelmingly majority of Tokyo’s public streets are still narrow and contain unnecessary curves and turns, and to make matters worse, they are always full of illegally parked cars that push away urban bikers and bike commuters to the sidewalks. There’s virtually no bike lanes if not there is no space for bicycles at all. Osaka and other Japanese cities are not that bicycle-unfriendly. Some are even very nice. But Tokyo and its surrounding areas are the exception! Tokyo is definitely the worst place for cycling in this country.

Up until recently, I was one of those early bird hobby cyclists who spend every Saturday and Sunday biking mountain passes and summits. I still love going to the mountains. I just can’t stand Tokyo’s dangerous roads, traffic light waste time and too much vehicular and pedestrian traffic any more.




One day I was heading for Tominnomori, a nature preservation area literally translated as Tokyoites’ Forest park, I got caught in a traffic jam. Tominnomori is a popular cyclist destination in this area and located 3,280 feet above sea level. It attracts not only cyclists but also a lot of motorcyclists and auto enthusiasts. The only road to the area was crowded. And it was cold. Freezing cold. I had already spent more than 5 hours to get there, been stopped by dozens of traffic signals and of course totally exhausted. Then I got caught in a traffic jam. I remember that that was the moment when I decided that this is insane. This is absolutely unacceptable. Painful, even.

Tominnomori

Since then, I have gotten off my bike. I didn’t want to associate these feelings with my beloved bike. There are many spectacular places out there. Even in Japan, there are a plenty of cycling destinations that are much more attractive, breathtaking and do NOT have this problem. But they are usually hundreds miles away from Tokyo.

Niigata

Hiroshima

Miyagi

Yamaguchi

Although I have been doing everything to move out of this town, it’s not that easy to move from one place to another in a short period of time. People here rarely change their careers. Job opportunities are kinda limited. My girlfriend, who is European by the way, may not want to live outside Japan or the Schengen area, while I’d love to live and work in North America.

And in the mean time, I need a place for my daily workout. In the last winter, I ran very early in the morning. Before rush hour took place, the sidewalks were vacant and peaceful. As spring came and the temperature rose, however, they became gradually crowded. It was time to try something new. Something I hadn’t been doing in years.

I’ve started going to the swimming pool that is free from crowds, frustration and fear of dooring accidents. Well, admission fees for public swimming pools in Tokyo cost $ 3.5 – 5.5 (400 – 600 JPY). But they are no different from the train fares Tokyo’s cyclists have to pay, when they try to avoid the crowded streets by rail. And it doesn’t take hours to get there! I can go there 5 days a week and swim at least half a mile every time I go there. I am really happy with that.

Several weeks have passed, since I visited the swimming pool for the first time in more than a decade. On the very first day, I felt discomfort in my chest, back and upper arms. I also found it strange that I couldn’t breath when I needed the most. As I swam fast, I almost drowned in the water, because I too easily lost a chance to breath. When you cycle fast, or run fast, you never care about shortage of breath. I was too used to cycling and running and forgot about breathing intentionally. But it became OK in just a few days. I have gotten used to the water. Things have been going well so far.

Cherry Blossom Time

Almost three weeks ago, I went for an early spring getaway. The sky was mostly clear. The air was mild. Flowers were in bloom. It was time to back in the saddle. So I put on just a long sleeve jersey with undershirt and shorts. No more leg warmers and shoe covers.

It was a calm day with little wind. I left Tokyo very early in the morning, headed north east and made my first stop at the foot of Mt. Tsukuba. Somewhere near Ishioka. It was a very scenic ride to get there. But the roads were a little rough and had a few small potholes on them. Moreover, there was much traffic on the roads. I paid most of my attention to avoid both flat tires and accidents and eventually got tired in the middle of nowhere.




I then ended with nearly 80 miles in about 5 hours and started taking landscape pictures. It was a beautiful spring day after all.